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I have some experience powering my Pis from 12v battery packs from Milwaukee. You'll want to set your buck converter to 5.2V, since that's what the Official power supplies put out. You may also want to run a second buck converter for the screen, set it the same 5.2v since they'll be connected and you don't want some voltage difference over the USB or HDMI or Dsi. Powering a screen and a pi5 you might not have enough amps to keep everything happy on one 5A buck converter. Find a way to use a USB-C pigtail to power the pi. I wouldn't use a cheap wire with unknown amp rating. Maybe even cut off a new Official PS cord, since a quality USB-C cord would probably cost more. The GPIO pins aren't great for powering long term and you don't want to be in and out with whatever you're building, constantly. I haven't spent any real time with my Pi5s on battery power, yet. I've kept it to low - no overclock and I've just been bringing the OPS and plugging in. It does work, I just haven't investigated fully how long it will on 6A or 8A batteries. My Pi4's could get 7 hours on a single battery pack @ 2ghz or around. So not full overclocking. If your power is good, (which it should be on a car battery,) you should be able to run the same OC as on wall power, without wifi and bluetooth or USB devices dropping out. The one I'm typing on Pi5 4GB, arm 3100, gpu 1100, force turbo 1, over voltage delta 80000, with USB max current enabled. Oh and don't skip fuses and fuseblock, all the other proper wiring for automotive installs. I might get around to doing some kind of car install myself, someday. 94 Ford Probe GT, KLZE swap with an ECU swap, and exhaust upgrade. 50 extra horses NA, on Mazda parts.
I have some experience powering my Pis from 12v battery packs from Milwaukee. You'll want to set your buck converter to 5.2V, since that's what the Official power supplies put out. You may also want to run a second buck converter for the screen, set it the same 5.2v since they'll be connected and you don't want some voltage difference over the USB or HDMI or Dsi. Powering a screen and a pi5 you might not have enough amps to keep everything happy on one 5A buck converter. Find a way to use a USB-C pigtail to power the pi. I wouldn't use a cheap wire with unknown amp rating. Maybe even cut off a new Official PS cord, since a quality USB-C cord would probably cost more. The GPIO pins aren't great for powering long term and you don't want to be in and out with whatever you're building, constantly. I haven't spent any real time with my Pi5s on battery power, yet. I've kept it to low - no overclock and I've just been bringing the OPS and plugging in. It does work, I just haven't investigated fully how long it will on 6A or 8A batteries. My Pi4's could get 7 hours on a single battery pack @ 2ghz or around. So not full overclocking. If your power is good, (which it should be on a car battery,) you should be able to run the same OC as on wall power, without wifi and bluetooth or USB devices dropping out. The one I'm typing on Pi5 4GB, arm 3100, gpu 1100, force turbo 1, over voltage delta 80000, with USB max current enabled. Oh and don't skip fuses and fuseblock, all the other proper wiring for automotive installs. I might get around to doing some kind of car install myself, someday. 94 Ford Probe GT, KLZE swap with an ECU swap, and exhaust upgrade. 50 extra horses NA, on Mazda parts.Statistics: Posted by PGTMR2 — Fri Oct 11, 2024 3:01 am